Outdoor Gas Fire Pit Shop

The time had come to light up the barbeque grill!  There was only one small problem. With all the preparations he had made for the cookout, Frank had forgotten charcoal lighter! Not to be detoured by such a small detail, he entered the tool shed at the back of his yard and returned with a large can of gasoline.
 
Frank had built a gorgeous new backyard barbeque pit, whom, to the disgust of the brick masons, supervised every detail of the project.  It was a beautiful fireplace style grill with the chimney just about head, high built of the same brick that covered his home.

Proud of owning the best looking barbeque pit in our neighborhood, Frank’s grill featured an arched flat black steel bonnet for enclosed cooking; with a warming tray built into the side of the brick pit to keep rare steaks from getting cold while others cooked longer. There was even a compartment built on the opposite side to house starter fluid for the charcoal.

 After dumping a large amount of charcoal into the bed of the grill, he picked up the can of gasoline.  By now the neighbors had begun to realize what Frank was about to do and began hollering at him to put down the gas can!

Several friends offered to run to their homes and get charcoal lighter fluid. No Way!  Frank was determined to kick off this celebration with a big fire!  He also guaranteed everyone that he knew what he was doing!  He was enjoying the spotlight; being the center of attention!

He dumped the container of fuel over the charcoal and continued pouring even after the briquettes had been thoroughly drenched.  Now came the moment of truth!  He lit a match and with a melodramatic flair and tossed it onto the charcoal! Whoooomp! 

Brick mortar is very porous and does not always bond perfectly to a surface without leaving a tiny crack in the joints between bricks. When gasoline fills that fissure, it will flow into the base of the structure, such as a barbeque pit.

Vapors from the gasoline that had flowed into the grill did what they do when they come in contact with a flame. The grill exploded!  Bricks and mortar blasted into pieces and rained down from the sky onto all of us who had observed the big bang! No one was hurt because most of the crowd had run for cover when they saw what Frank was about to do.

He was slightly hurt by a fragment of brick skimming across the top of his head.  Nothing serious, but his grill was destroyed! A few seconds before, it was a magnificent example of craftsmanship; something to be proud of and enjoy for years to come. Instantly it was just a pile of trash!  

Although Frank has recovered from last year’s calamity, he has made plans to build an even bigger charcoal cooker than the last one. I doubt he will ever use gasoline to start a fire again!

Bob Alexander
http://www.articlesbase.com/food-and-beverage-articles/dont-use-gasoline-to-light-up-the-barbeque-grill-1330160.html

I just purchased a house and i am interested in building a fire pit on my patio. BUT i have some questions. The patio is just off the south end of my garage. My yard slopes down, so the patio is about 5 feet thick of concrete. Its fairly large, so a fire pit will fit nicely. Anyway, can i just build a cylinder out of brick/rock (whatever i decide) or do i have to actually dig some sort of a hole first? I’ve seen a ton of fire pits in the ground in like a barrel. Anyways you catch my drift. Let me know. Thanks in advance!

Before you do anything call the bylaw dept of your town and see what they will allow as far as a fire pit is concerned– many places will not allow open pits but require side screens and a top– you can buy metal fire pits at places like Home Depot and such for less than $220.00–

I’ve recently moved into a new house and it has a stone fire pit with brick landscaped all around it. Would i need a burning permit if i were just to throw sticks in and burn them

what are d council gonna do…

helicopter around your city lookin 4 fires!!!

go 4 it!

wats da difference between dat and a BBQ??

Outdoor living, urban living, changing your garden,

Out Door Living Advice

This applies equally to country or city living. While for some the garden is a passion, for many more people it is an “outdoor living room”. It’s a place where children play, families eat, friends are entertained and all types of hobbies are pursued. To have the best outdoor living area, you must first consider your lifestyle, and what you want to do in the garden.

Make Your Garden More Liveable!

• For people with larger properties, such as farms or large suburban blocks, try to keep your living, play and entertainment areas away from work and storage areas.
• Keep rubbish and compost areas away from bbq and eating areas. (Note: Flies breed in rubbish and compost).
• Keep still water away from outdoor entertainment areas (these can be mozzie breeding areas).
• Plant mints and tansy near outdoor living areas to help repel insects.
• When you build anything with bolts or nails, make sure no bolts or nails are left protruding.
• Put metal furniture (or play equipment) in shaded places where it won’t get too hot and scald the children.
• In hot climates, check out where cooling winds come from (usually off the water in seaside areas), and leave openings in the garden to catch these winds (ie. Don’t build walls or plant hedges where they will stop a cool breeze).
• In cool climates paved areas against a north facing wall will heat up more than other parts of the garden, providing a useable outdoor living area almost all year round.

For A Comfortable Time in the Garden

• Provide shaded places so you can escape the sun.
• Always wear a hat
• In summer and in warmer climates, always apply suntan lotion.
• Keep out of the sun in the middle of the day.
• Keep your garden clean so you don’t attract pests
• Never chance falling asleep in the full sun.
• Break some mint or tansy and rub over yourself if insects pose a problem. (Tansy repels flies, most mints repel most insects).
• Throw some crushed leaves of mint or tansy around the bbq, or on the table with food to help keep insects away.
• Avoid using poisonous plants.
• Avoid creating slippery surfaces (eg. extra wet areas or an overused extra wet area in a lawn)
• Remove sharp or protruding objects which could be bumped, tripped on or knocked (eg. part of a fence, poorly laid paving, tools left lying around, farm equipment)
• Avoid areas which will restrict the cool flow of air.

Buy Outdoor Living products, log cabins and garden sheds at Garden Eco

Garden Buildings

Garden buildings are used for various reasons, including:

• Somewhere to escape the heat or rain.
• Somewhere to store bikes, tools or other things either for protection, or just to keep out of eyesight.
• Somewhere to work in away from the house.
• Somewhere for privacy away from the house (some parents use gazebos or shed to escape the kids, and some kids use them to escape the parents).

Garden Sheds
The least expensive type of shed is a prefabricated metal structure with galvanized iron walls and roof. Despite being galvanized, the walls can eventually rust, hence routine maintenance (rust proofing and painting) becomes essential if you want a longer life. Being a cheap construction these have their problems. These sheds are poorly insulated and may not be watertight. Unless anchored tightly to the ground they can blow down in a windstorm or cyclone. These problems can be reduced by bolting the shed to a pre poured, concrete slab which is raised above ground level. A window and double doors can provide useful ventilation on very hot days. Brick or timber sheds are better insulated, and if properly constructed will last longer than a tin shed; however these are more expensive alternatives.

Gazebos
Gazebos are roofed buildings designed to command a view. Open on one or more sides, they may be any shape, though traditionally they are octagonal or hexagonal with a hipped or conical roof.
They may be constructed of wood, cast iron, aluminium or cast columns of cement, with wooden shingles or palings being traditional for the roof, although corrugated or flat iron can be used.
A gazebo can provide protection from the direct sun for outdoor entertaining. There are all types of gazebos on the market today, and your choice is best determined by what you can afford and the style of garden you are trying to create. Remember though, that there may be maintenance involved. Stained timber will need restaining. Painted metal or timber will need repainting periodically.

BARBEQUES

Barbeques come in all shapes and forms, and are just about a must have item in any Australian backyard, even very small ones. No matter what sort of barbecue you have, there are some basic rules to follow in where you put it and how you use it.

Location and Landscaping around the BBQ

• Keep it clear of plants which could catch on fire. (Fire resistant plants include Agapanthus, Coprosma, Ficus, Ligustrum, Pelargonium, Populus (Poplar) and most cacti or succulents).
• Build a wall or fence (preferably fire resistant), nearby to protect the barbecue from wind.
• Locate a table, seat or bench near the barbecue to place uncooked (or cooked) food on.
• Outdoor tables and chairs should be far enough away to avoid any problem with smoke, or spitting fats or cooking oils.
• Install lighting so that you can see how the cooking is going at night. Be sure that people standing around the barbecue don’t throw shadows over the barbecue.
• Put plants which can be used in cooking near the barbecue (eg. Thyme, Sage, Oregano).
• Gravel is the best surface under a barbecue, because it won’t develop ugly permanent stains from oils and fats, etc. Concrete and sandstone are some of the worst materials for staining.

Types of BBQ’s

• Wood barbeques are appropriate if you live in a treed area, where there is an abundance of firewood, such as in country areas, or you have access to wood offcuts (perhaps from a joinery). They are normally built from concrete blocks, brick or stone. Always remember the fire needs air around it to burn. The best wood barbeques are ones where the fire is on a metal grill raised above the base, allowing air to move in below the fire, and ash to drop through. The hot plate above the fire should slope slightly backwards to allow fat to drain off to the rear. If it drains to the front, it is dangerous and can stain paving, shoes or anything else in front of the bbq. If built properly, with a tall chimney, it is relatively smoke free. Another simple way to build a wood barbecue is to dig a pit in the ground, sit a metal grill in the pit and place a metal plate on top of a few bricks to bridge the hole.
• Outdoor Ovens. The “Webber” style barbecue has become very popular in recent years. Using heat beads as the fuel and fire lighters to start it up is not exactly cheap, but it is very easy to use and particularly appreciated when you want to cook a roast on a hot Christmas day. The main disadvantages are that you must remember to buy the heat beads and firelighters, and you must be positive that there is sufficient heat being generated before putting the top on. Most people who own this type of barbecue have experienced the occasional late or cold meal, because “someone didn’t get the heat beads going hot enough”.
• Gas Barbeques. Gas is clean and reliable. It isn’t expensive to buy or use, and is instant heat, unlike heat beads or wood fire. The only real problem arises when you don’t check the gas level and run out of gas half way through a barbecue.

Dave angel
http://www.articlesbase.com/landscaping-articles/buy-out-door-living-garden-sheds-furniture-and-landscaping-materials-1067939.html

We are re-doing our fire pit area on our farm, we have some old bricks that we want to recycle, but they have mortar still stuck to them.. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to clean these bricks? I have been using a hammer and chisel but WOW, that’s a lot of work for just 1 brick. and I need to do about 100. I hope someone has some advise. I could really use it. Thanks!

I had to do this for a BBQ I built in the garden and it is tough. You need what is called a scutch hammer – on the end of it there is a hardened metal comb which is designed precisely for removing old mortar. If you can’t get one (they may be called something else in the US??) then a brick hammer will do the job, but not as well. The trick is to hold the brick in a well padded gloved hand, and persevere. It is a nasty job, and depending on the strength of the mortar can be a real pig to get off. Good Luck!

Hello, a friend gave us some brick she used to build her house for a homemade firepit. She also uses it for a homemade fire pit. Tonight is the first time we are going to try to use it. However, several people have stated that the brick will "blow UP". Does anyone know if this is true? They have said it may injure those around. I have an infant and am really worried now. Please let me know if anyone knows this to be true.
THANKS

This is a common misconception.

Bricks/Concrete that have dried and are solid will not explode. It is the water inside of still wet bricks that expands and then, rarely, explodes.

If the bricks are old or you’re certain that they are dry all the way through, then there is no harm in using them for a fire pit.

I recently had a paver brick patio built with a fire pit built into the ground. I’m having a hard time finding a round grate to place inside the pit for firewood.

Ross V

Go to a welding shop. For what you are asking is VERY easy to construct; two hours if that.

Depending on the type of outdoor fireplace you have, maintenance can be simple or complicated. By taking proper care of your fireplace, however much work it involves, you can ensure that it will remain useful and attractive for several seasons or more.

Basic Outdoor Fireplace Maintenance

All outdoor fireplaces require ash cans, brooms, and sturdy work gloves. Before performing any other maintenance, make sure the fire has completely died down, and then empty the remaining ash or wood into an ash can for disposal. Use a brush to direct the ash into the can and ensure that you get as much ash out of the fire box as possible.

At the start of each season, clean the fire box, chimney, and flue to remove any soot, creosote, or yard debris. You should also check with your local fire station to determine the amount of clearance you should maintain around the fireplace. Three feet is usually the minimum, but it may be higher in fire-prone regions.

Iron Fireplace Maintenance

Iron fireplaces are among the sturdiest of outdoor fireplaces. Some come with steel or aluminum chimneys and iron bases. If this is the case with yours, make sure replacement parts are available before you buy it because the base will last longer than the chimney. You don’t want to replace the whole thing if you don’t need to.

Iron resists rust, but you should apply a special high-temperature paint to the iron portions to halt rust that has developed or prevent it from developing in the first place. See the manufacturer’s instructions for advice about how often you should paint the fireplace.

Iron fireplaces are difficult to move. Instead you should cover the fireplace with a specially-designed vinyl cover during the wet season.

Copper Outdoor Fireplaces

Copper will transform from its brilliant copper shade to a greenish patina with use. You can help maintain the original color by storing the fire pit in a dry place away from the elements and cleaning it after each use. You can also buy covers for copper fire pits to protect them where they stand. The iron base will also need to be maintained with high-temperature paint to prevent rust.

The fire pit can be wiped with a mild dishwashing detergent or other non-abrasive cleaner, a citrus degreaser and a nylon brush, or chimney cleaning products.

Aluminum or Steel Fireplaces

Both of these fireplaces should be covered when they’re not in use to prevent rust.

Clay Chimeneas

Clay chimeneas require less maintenance if they’re used properly. Before each use, inspect it for cracks and remove debris from the chimney. Do not use it if you see cracks. The heat will continue to damage it, which could create a dangerous situation if it breaks with a fire inside it. If your chimenea is in good condition, start the fire slowly to allow the clay to adapt. You should also keep it covered between uses to reduce exposure to moisture.

Brick and Stone Outdoor Fireplaces

These fireplaces should be maintained as you would an indoor fireplace. Remove ash and debris from the fire box after use and wipe ash off the hearth with a brush. A chimney cap will help keep leaves out of the chimney and arrest sparks.

Clean out the chimney with a flue brush or hire a professional chimney sweep at the start of the summer. Although stone or brick outdoor fireplaces don’t need to be covered in winter, cleaning the exteriors in the spring will help maintain a more attractive appearance. Visit your home store to find products used to wash the outsides of stone or brick chimneys.

Take the time to care for your outdoor fireplace properly if you want to enjoy your season after season. It’s worth it.

Lisa Becker
http://www.articlesbase.com/home-improvement-articles/how-to-maintain-outdoor-fireplaces-869316.html

I recently had a white stone (Ashlar chopped) fire pit installed in my backyard with fireproof bricks on the bottom. Several holes on the first course of stone for air circulation, and a circular stone cap-cut into triangles and pieced together with Type S(strong) white mortar. The entire fire pit was pieced together with Type S mortar. It cracks after burning a fire in it. It has been cracking in the same spot, all the way from the bricks on bottom to the stone cap on top after a burn. I have had it repaired 3 times, but it keeps cracking in the same spot. What could be happening? Please help!!

The short answer is that the system is undergoing some kind of stress that causes the weakest point or the point with the most stress to fracture.

Likely causes are settlement or heat. As it seems to happen after a fire it is most likely the thermal stresses associated with relatively rapid expansion and contraction of the material. It may be that your type "S" mortar is strong but not flexable enough to handle the stresses. Also it could be that the design, which is not entirely clear from your description, allows the unit to heat (expand and contract) unevenly. This in turn puts the obvious stress on the material.

If your mason is not a specialist builder of fireplaces he may not have the necessary knowledge. There are different considerations. I would suggest you not have it repaired until you can find someone who recognizes the problem. This is a little hard to do without a site inspection.

If it matters, the house is made of brick with an asphalt/architectural roof.

All things considered, it is best to put one at least 30 to 50 feet away from your house. You may walk away from the pit on a windy day and see sparks flying toward your home. The further it is away from you home the better your chances are to put out any potential fires. Safety is more important than convenience.